Lighting and The Equipment
The Function of Lighting
Everything we do with cameras and lenses is about capturing light. Light is needed to register an image on a video camera’s sensor or on film, but the lighting in a movie plays a much more complex role than just that. A scene may be lit by nature (the sun), with available light (using whatever natural or man-made light is already at the location), or with lighting fixtures that the filmmaker controls. The way a scene is lit influences both how we understand the scene—what we can see in it—and how we experience the scene emotionally.
Lighting directs the viewer’s attention, since the eye is naturally drawn to bright areas of the frame. Lighting gives the audience cues about the time of day and season in which a scene takes place. The angle from which light strikes an object or a face affects how we see shapes and textures. Side lighting casts shadows that emphasize depth, dimension, and surface texture, while frontal lighting tends to flatten, compress, and smooth over features.
Qualities of light have a powerful effect on the mood of a scene. Painters are often celebrated for the way they manipulate light and create particular moods. Andrew Wyeth, for example, evokes the gray, quiet feeling of the Maine landscape with extremely flat and even illumination. Rembrandt creates a much more dramatic effect by using a chiaroscuro style, in which pools of light and shadow are used to obscure as much as they reveal of a subject. Think of the qualities of light over the course of a day. A bright morning sun can feel cheery and safe, while a moonless night evokes mystery or tension.
On feature films, lighting is usually a top priority. The actors and sets must look their best and the mood of the scene must be right. Lights are positioned carefully, consuming much time and expense. The director of photography is usually responsible for the lighting design, which is as important as his or her mastery of cameras and lenses.
In documentary production, light is sometimes a low priority, thought of less for its mood than for its exposure value. In some cases there’s just no time for careful lighting. But sometimes good lighting takes no more time than bad. It may be as simple as using available light smartly.
In all productions, one of the key concerns is controlling contrast. Most natural and available light situations have a range of brightness that exceeds the camera’s ability to capture it. Often lighting equipment is needed to make shadows less dark or highlights less bright.
People get into fierce debates about the virtues of one camera over another, video versus film, one type of setting or another, but the fact of the matter is that lighting often plays a huge and unacknowledged role. Good lighting can make even a “bad” camera look good, and bad lighting looks bad regardless.
This chapter is written for people working in video or film, who may have a large crew or be
shooting alone. For simplicity’s sake, the person doing the lighting will be referred to as the DP (director of photography).
The Equipment
Look at a painting, a photograph, or a scene in a movie that you think has interesting light. How is the painter or photographer achieving that effect? Start by identifying the light sources (you may not be able to see the source itself, just the light it produces). Examine each source for these factors that contribute to its effect in the scene:
What kind of shadow does it cast (crisp or diffuse)?
What angle is it coming from?
How bright is it (its intensity)?
How bright is it relative to other lights (the lighting contrast)? What color is it?
When you’re ready to shoot a scene, ask the same questions about the light sources. At times you may specifically check, say, the angle or intensity of a given light. But at other times you will look at things more instinctively, evaluating the overall “feel” of the lighting but keeping these factors in the back of your mind.
Qualities of Light
The hardness of light is a way to describe the type of shadow it casts. Hard light, also called specular light, like direct sunlight on a clear day, is made up of parallel rays that produce clean, hard shadows that neatly outline the shapes of objects (see Fig. 12-1). Hard light is crisp and can sometimes feel harsh.
Soft, or diffuse, light is less directional. It’s made up of rays going in many different directions and produces much softer, gentler shadows. The light on a hazy or overcast day is soft. It emanates from all parts of the sky at once. If it casts shadows at all, they are dull and indistinct.
Hard light can be produced artificially with lensed or focused lamps that emit a clearly directed beam. The spotlights used to single out a performer on stage are extremely hard. The light from a car headlight is quite hard. Hard light can be created with a fairly compact lighting fixture.
Because hard light casts very distinct shadows, it is used to delineate shapes. It brings out surface textures and can cast dramatic, sculpted shadows. The classic Hollywood look of the 1940s is based on fairly hard light sources (see Fig. 9-14). In a less flattering use of hard light, news photographers often use a simple, hard light that creates sharp shadows across the face.
Qualities of Light
The hardness of light is a way to describe the type of shadow it casts. Hard light, also called specular light, like direct sunlight on a clear day, is made up of parallel rays that produce clean, hard shadows that neatly outline the shapes of objects (see Fig. 12-1). Hard light is crisp and can sometimes feel harsh.
Soft, or diffuse, light is less directional. It’s made up of rays going in many different directions and produces much softer, gentler shadows. The light on a hazy or overcast day is soft. It emanates from all parts of the sky at once. If it casts shadows at all, they are dull and indistinct.
Hard light can be produced artificially with lensed or focused lamps that emit a clearly directed beam. The spotlights used to single out a performer on stage are extremely hard. The light from a car headlight is quite hard. Hard light can be created with a fairly compact lighting fixture.
Because hard light casts very distinct shadows, it is used to delineate shapes. It brings out surface textures and can cast dramatic, sculpted shadows. The classic Hollywood look of the 1940s is based on fairly hard light sources (see Fig. 9-14). In a less flattering use of hard light, news photographers often use a simple, hard light that creates sharp shadows across the face.
Directionality
As noted above, the direction or angle from which light strikes the subject influences how the subject appears on screen. Light coming from the general direction of the camera is called front light. Front axial light comes from very near the camera’s lens; its shadows are mostly not visible from the camera position. Camera-mounted fixtures, such as flash units used on still cameras, provide front light, which illuminates all the visible surfaces of the subject. Full frontal lighting can be quite harsh and usually uninteresting, since dimensionality and surface texture are minimized. However, the flattening effect may be desired. Models are often photographed with very frontal light (see Fig. 4-5). In fashion shoots, sometimes a ring light is used that encircles the lens and can makes faces seem flawless and without dimension (of course, a little retouching in Photoshop makes them even more flawless).
You can think of full frontal lighting as projecting from the number 6 on a clock face whose center is the subject. (Think of the camera as also positioned at the number 6.) Offset (the light at number 5 or 7) and three-quarter front light (around 4:30 or 7:30) can be used for portraiture when more shadowing is desired.
Full side light (around 3 or 9) provides good modeling and indication of texture (since texture is revealed by the pattern of tiny individual shadows visible from the camera position). Side light can be quite dramatic. It produces shadows that fall clearly across the frame and distinctly reveal the depth of various objects in space.
Backlight originates from behind (and usually above) the subject. It tends to outline the subject’s shape and to differentiate it from the background. Backlight can produce a bright edge or halo on a subject’s hair and shoulders. When backlight predominates, sometimes called contre-jour, it can create a moody and romantic effect. If the background is bright and no light falls on the camera side of the subject, the subject will be in silhouette.
We are also concerned with the vertical angle of light—that is, the height from which it strikes the subject. Top light, which shines down from directly above the subject, can make deep shadows in eye sockets. Cinematographer Gordon Willis used top light in The Godfather to cast menacing shadows in Marlon Brando’s eyes. Top light can also make landscapes seem more two-dimensional, because few shadows are visible (think of sunlight at noon on a bright day). Most movie lighting is done with the key lights angled about 40 degrees from the floor or slightly higher for the best modeling without casting excessive shadows. Underlighting, in which the light comes up from below the subject and casts shadows upward, occurs rarely in nature and is used in horror films to lend a ghoulish look to faces.
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Fig. 12-5. Lighting depends on the camera angle. From this side, the performer is backlit by the spotlight, with a very high-contrast, edge-lit look. If you shot from the other side, she would be front lit with a much flatter look. The camera on the crane directly above is seeing a side-lit shot of the keyboard. (Sony Electronics, Inc.)
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Fig. 12-4. Directionality of light. The subject is lit by one light. (A) Backlight or kicker. (B) Side light. (C) Three-quarter front light. (D) Full frontal light. Also see Fig. 12-40. (Ned Johnston)
Lighting Contrast
Much of the mood or atmosphere of a lighting scheme is determined by the lighting contrast— that is, the relationship in light intensity between the brightly lit areas and the shadow areas. With great lighting contrast, there is a great difference in intensity between the bright areas and the deep shadows. With low lighting contrast (often achieved by using secondary lights to fill in the shadows), the lighting appears fairly flat and uniform throughout the frame. The degree of lighting contrast is often expressed numerically in terms of the lighting contrast ratio (see p. 512). Lighting contrast results from the relationship of the key light (which casts the primary shadows) and the fill light (which fills in the key’s shadows). See below for more on these terms.
A low-key lighting design has high lighting contrast and a Rembrandt-like look, with dark shadow areas predominating over light areas. Low-key lighting is associated with night, emotion, tension, tragedy, and mystery. Film-noir movies, as well as Citizen Kane, are lit in moody, low-key lighting; the dramatic feel of the lighting is well suited to the black-and-white image.
With high-key lighting, the lighting contrast is low and bright tones predominate, making everything appear bright and cheery. High-key lighting is often used for daytime scenes and comedy. Most studio-shot television shows use this kind of low-contrast lighting scheme because the light is evenly distributed around the set, which is convenient in situations in which several cameras are shooting simultaneously from different angles or when an actor must be able to move freely around the set without walking into deep shadows.
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Fig. 12-6. The single candle produces hard light (note the crisp shadows) and a very high-contrast lighting scheme with no fill lighting and deep shadows. (The Penitent Magdalen by Georges de La Tour, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Mr. & Mrs. Charles Wrightsman, 1978)
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Fig. 12-8. The window light here is quite soft (note the gentle shadow angled downward from the windowsill). Compared to Fig. 12-7, this lighting is lower contrast, since the light source is bigger and softer, and reflected light in the room helps fill in shadows. See other works by Vermeer for his masterly rendering of natural light. (Young Woman with a Water Jug by Johannes Vermeer, The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Henry G. Marquand, 1889)
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Fig. 12-7. In this scene from Get Low, smoke is used to reveal the rays of light streaming through the window. Lighting contrast on the face is high, with little fill lighting for a stark look. The frame has a great feeling of depth that ranges from the foreground subject to the middle ground window, and then to the back wall of the church. (Sony Pictures Classics)
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Fig. 12-9. This scene from Born Yesterday is lit in a classic high-key, low-contrast style of Hollywood comedies of the 1940s and 50s. Lighting units are fairly hard, and no part of the set is allowed to go very dark. (Columbia Pictures)
LIGHTING EQUIPMENT
Lighting equipment may be owned by the filmmaker, a production company, or a school, or it may be rented for individual shoots. Often the DP and/or gaffer (see p. 362) assembles a lighting package from a rental house according to the needs of each production or day’s work.
Lighting Fixtures and Light Intensity
In the world of movie lighting, a lighting fixture may be called a lighting unit, instrument, head, or luminaire. The bulb is referred to as a lamp or globe; changing a bulb is relamping. Lighting units
are identified by type and power consumption. A 5K spot is a 5,000-watt (5-kilowatt) spotlight. Lights are balanced for tungsten (3200°K) unless stated otherwise. Don’t confuse degrees kelvin with use of K that indicates wattage.
On the set you’ll find many names used for various pieces of equipment; some are based on manufacturers’ names, and others are nicknames used in different regions or countries.
The brightness of a lightbulb is usually discussed in terms of wattage. Wattage is actually a measure of how much electric power is used (see Location Lighting, p. 518); some bulbs and fixtures put out more light than others for the same power consumption (that is, they are more efficient). In the case of two lights that employ the same type of bulb in the same fixture, a doubling of wattage implies a doubling of light output.
With the exception of certain focusing lighting fixtures, the intensity of illumination decreases the farther the subject is from a light. This is known as light falloff. The rule for typical open bulbs is that the falloff in intensity is inversely proportional to the square of the distance (see Fig. 12-10). Thus, moving an object twice as far from a lamp results in it being lit by one-quarter the amount of light. Because of this, falloff is especially sharp when you are near the light source. Imagine a couch lit by a floor lamp at one end of the couch. A person sitting near the lamp could be lit four times as brightly as the person sitting next to him (an exposure difference of two stops). This difference will look even more extreme when captured on video or film. For even illumination, lights should be kept far away from the subjects so that slight changes in distance do not cause large changes in exposure. Soft light sources fall off more sharply than focused, hard light sources.
Lighting Fixtures and Light Intensity
In the world of movie lighting, a lighting fixture may be called a lighting unit, instrument, head, or luminaire. The bulb is referred to as a lamp or globe; changing a bulb is relamping. Lighting units
are identified by type and power consumption. A 5K spot is a 5,000-watt (5-kilowatt) spotlight. Lights are balanced for tungsten (3200°K) unless stated otherwise. Don’t confuse degrees kelvin with use of K that indicates wattage.
On the set you’ll find many names used for various pieces of equipment; some are based on manufacturers’ names, and others are nicknames used in different regions or countries.
The brightness of a lightbulb is usually discussed in terms of wattage. Wattage is actually a measure of how much electric power is used (see Location Lighting, p. 518); some bulbs and fixtures put out more light than others for the same power consumption (that is, they are more efficient). In the case of two lights that employ the same type of bulb in the same fixture, a doubling of wattage implies a doubling of light output.
With the exception of certain focusing lighting fixtures, the intensity of illumination decreases the farther the subject is from a light. This is known as light falloff. The rule for typical open bulbs is that the falloff in intensity is inversely proportional to the square of the distance (see Fig. 12-10). Thus, moving an object twice as far from a lamp results in it being lit by one-quarter the amount of light. Because of this, falloff is especially sharp when you are near the light source. Imagine a couch lit by a floor lamp at one end of the couch. A person sitting near the lamp could be lit four times as brightly as the person sitting next to him (an exposure difference of two stops). This difference will look even more extreme when captured on video or film. For even illumination, lights should be kept far away from the subjects so that slight changes in distance do not cause large changes in exposure. Soft light sources fall off more sharply than focused, hard light sources.
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Fig. 12-10. The inverse square law. (1) Light falls off rapidly as you move away from the source: moth B is twice as far from the candle as moth A but receives one-quarter the amount of light. Moth C is three times farther from the candle than moth A and receives one-ninth the amount of light. (2) Light falloff is less severe when you are farther from the source: moving from B to C is the same distance as moving from A to B, but the light falloff is much less (it falls off to about half the previous level instead of to one-quarter). (Carol Keller)
BULBS
Bulbs differ in the type and color of light they emit. If you’re unfamiliar with color temperature and its use in video and film, see Chapter 8. Further discussion of white balance and video cameras is on p. 109.
Household Bulbs and Photo Bulbs
- It used to be that most home interiors were lit with tungsten incandescent bulbs. These are rapidly being replaced with compact fluorescents (see below). Nevertheless, there are still tungsten bulbs in use. Common household incandescent bulbs can be used with video cameras as long as the camera can get a good white balance. They can also be used for black-and-white film shoots. Their color temperature, however, is about 2900°K, so the light they produce looks yellow-orange instead of white on tungsten-balanced color film. Sometimes professional 3200°K lighting units are used for the primary illumination for a shoot, and household incandescents are used in a table lamp or other practical fixture (see Lighting Styles, p. 498). In this case, though the household bulb may look yellow relative to the movie lights, it may seem natural in the scene. See Practicals, p. 491.
- Photo bulbs are available that use tungsten filaments similar to those in household bulbs, but the light emitted is designed to match tungsten-balanced film. Both 3200°K and 3400°K versions are available. A bluer, “daylight-balanced” version (rated at 4800°K) can also be purchased. Photo bulbs may be either photofloods or reflector floods. Reflector floods, such as the R-40, are mushroom shaped with a built-in reflecting surface that projects a more directed beam of light.
Tungsten-Halogen Bulbs
Also called just tungsten or quartz, these bulbs employ a tungsten filament surrounded by halogen gas encased in a quartz glass bulb (see Fig. 12-17). Tungsten-halogen bulbs have been the most commonly used bulbs for professional lighting instruments. The standard “tungsten” lighting unit is assumed to have a tungsten-halogen bulb rated at 3200°K. The bulbs are small and the brightest ones are rated at about 20,000 watts. They burn for hundreds of hours, do not diminish in brightness or color temperature over their life span, and are relatively resistant to breakage during transport. Tungsten bulbs become very hot and are used mostly in heavy-duty fixtures for maximum safety and control. Finger oils damage quartz glass, so use gloves or paper when handling the bulb. If the glass is touched, wipe it with alcohol. Carry a metal clamp for removing hot bulbs. Since quartz bulbs can explode, never turn one on when you or anyone else is directly in front of the fixture.
As noted above, tungsten bulbs are rated at 3200°K and can be used with tungsten-balanced film without a filter. These bulbs, and any other tungsten-balanced source, can be raised in color temperature to better match daylight illumination with a blue dichroic filter or with blue gel material (see p. 497). This normally cuts the light’s output by about half.
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Fig. 12-11. HMI lights being used outdoors. Note the ballast unit (circled). HMIs are an efficient source of daylight-balanced illumination.
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These principles apply to all AC discharge lamps, including some fluorescent tubes (see below), HMI, CSI, sodium vapor, and mercury vapor lamps (the latter two are often found in sports stadiums and parking lots; they may require special filtering for color balance).
There are flicker-free ballasts available that allow filming at any frame rate without risk of HMI flicker and may output more light; however, they can produce a high whistling sound in some settings.
HMI Bulbs
Hydrargyrum medium-arc iodide (HMI, also called metal halide) bulbs are an efficient lighting source that produces daylight-balanced illumination (5600°K or 6000°K). HMIs put out three to four times as much light as tungsten bulbs for the same amount of electric power used. This improved efficiency means that bright lights can be run off a smaller power supply, possibly avoiding the need for special power lines or generators. Trying to match daylight with a tungsten source requires filters that cut out half the light; HMIs require no filters for daylight and are far more efficient for daylight applications. HMIs also give off less heat than tungsten lights, making them popular with actors and crews. HMIs are generally operated using AC power (wall current) and require a ballast unit to control the electricity going to the lamp. Most HMIs produce a pulsed light that seems continuous to the eye but may result in flicker in the video or film image if used improperly.1 To avoid flicker, the light pulses must be evenly distributed on each video or film frame. These are the guidelines:
- Use a crystal-controlled camera. All video cameras and most sync-sound film cameras are crystal controlled.
- Use a very stable power supply. In most technically advanced countries, the frequency of AC current is very stable. Care must be taken when using generators (use a crystal-controlled generator) or when shooting in the developing world.
- Use a frame rate that is divisible into twice the AC frequency. Thus, in the United States and other countries where the AC power is at 60 Hz, a frame rate of 12, 15, 20, 24, 30, 40, or 60 can be used. At 24 fps, camera shutter angles from 60 to 200 degrees will work fine, but a shutter angle of 144 degrees allows for the maximum variation if camera or power is slightly off speed. In countries with 50 Hz power, you can shoot at 10, 12.5, 16.666, 20, 25, 33.3, or 50 fps without danger of flicker. In these countries, a camera run at 25 fps can use any shutter angle. A camera run at 24 fps can avoid flicker by using a 172.8-degree shutter.
- When shooting in former NTSC countries that use typical 60 Hz power, standard video frame rates of 30p or 60i can be used without flicker (and use a shutter speed of 1⁄65 or 1⁄120 second). Informer PAL countries with 50 Hz power, video cameras run at 25p or 50i should be flicker-free (use a shutter speed of 1⁄50 or 1⁄100).
Fluorescent Bulbs
Fluorescent lighting falls into three categories: compact fluorescents often found in the home, conventional fluorescent fixtures typically found in office and institutional settings, and specially designed fluorescent lighting units for film and video work.
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Fig. 12-13. This Lowel Rifa light (see Fig. 12-19) has a receptacle for professional tungsten-halogen lamps, or you can quickly replace it with a screw-in (Edison) fitting that accepts standard household bulbs and compact fluorescents (shown here). CFLs are cheap and use very little power. You can get daylight-balanced, professional CFLs (5500°K) or use conventional household bulbs of various color temperatures.
COMPACT FLUORESCENTS
Many homes are lit with compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), which typically have a spiral-shaped or short, folded tubular bulb, most of which screw into the same household receptacles used for incandescents. CFLs are available in various color temperatures ranging from a warm white that is close to tungsten up to daylight (for more on CFL color, see p. 308). CFLs can be used for video assuming the camera can get a good white balance and for film as long the color works with your stock and any other lighting units. Some CFLs are dimmable. CFLs can be used in some professional lighting units (see Fig. 12-13). CFLs and LEDs (see below) produce the smallest carbon footprint.
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Fig. 12-14. (left) Kino Flo high-output, flicker-free fluorescent bulbs are available in true tungsten (3200°K) or daylight balance (5500°K). (top) Kino Flo Diva-Lites are useful as a soft source and for large areas. (right) The BarFly is handy for tight spots and accents. (LocLum.com/Kino Flo, Inc.)
CONVENTIONAL FLUORESCENTS
Standard fluorescent lighting fixtures have long, straight tubular bulbs and are usually undesirable for shooting—but they may be unavoidable. The spectrum of light from standard fluorescent tubes is discontinuous and matches neither tungsten nor daylight illumination. There are several types of fluorescent tubes available (daylight, cool white, warm white) that vary in color. Daylight and cool white tubes may produce an unpleasant blue-green color cast. Some warm white bulbs, however, are fairly close to tungsten.
As long as all fluorescent tubes in a scene are the same type, most video cameras can achieve an acceptable white balance (you may want to experiment with the “daylight” position on the white balance control). Film cameras can be used with filters on the lights or the camera to improve color rendition, such as using either an 85 or an FL-B filter for tungsten films or an FL-D filter for
daylight-balanced films. However, with many color film stocks, acceptable color balance can be achieved in the lab even if no filters were used. It’s better to get a good exposure with no filter than to be forced to underexpose with a filter.
Fluorescent lighting causes similar but less severe flicker problems than HMIs (see above). Standard frame rates of 24, 25, and 30 fps are fine. (In North America and other places where 60 Hz power is used, the rule of thumb is simply not to use shutter speeds faster than 1⁄60 second; in other
parts of the world where power is delivered at 50 Hz, 1⁄50 second should work.)
Mixing fluorescents with other sources of light can cause problems (see Mixed Lighting, p. 514). Fluorescent fixtures at workplaces often shine straight down, resulting in overexposed hair and deep eye and nose shadows. Many DPs choose, whenever possible, to replace standard fluorescents with color-balanced tubes (see below) or to turn off the fluorescents altogether and relight with some other source. When shooting in supermarkets and other settings in which it’s impractical to either turn off or replace existing tubes, a DP will sometimes use a professional fluorescent fill light fixture that uses the same tubes, to at least maintain consistency.
Fluorescent Bulbs
Fluorescent lighting falls into three categories: compact fluorescents often found in the home, conventional fluorescent fixtures typically found in office and institutional settings, and specially designed fluorescent lighting units for film and video work.
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Fig. 12-13. This Lowel Rifa light (see Fig. 12-19) has a receptacle for professional tungsten-halogen lamps, or you can quickly replace it with a screw-in (Edison) fitting that accepts standard household bulbs and compact fluorescents (shown here). CFLs are cheap and use very little power. You can get daylight-balanced, professional CFLs (5500°K) or use conventional household bulbs of various color temperatures.
COMPACT FLUORESCENTS
Many homes are lit with compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs), which typically have a spiral-shaped or short, folded tubular bulb, most of which screw into the same household receptacles used for incandescents. CFLs are available in various color temperatures ranging from a warm white that is close to tungsten up to daylight (for more on CFL color, see p. 308). CFLs can be used for video assuming the camera can get a good white balance and for film as long the color works with your stock and any other lighting units. Some CFLs are dimmable. CFLs can be used in some professional lighting units (see Fig. 12-13). CFLs and LEDs (see below) produce the smallest carbon footprint.
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Fig. 12-14. (left) Kino Flo high-output, flicker-free fluorescent bulbs are available in true tungsten (3200°K) or daylight balance (5500°K). (top) Kino Flo Diva-Lites are useful as a soft source and for large areas. (right) The BarFly is handy for tight spots and accents. (LocLum.com/Kino Flo, Inc.)
FLUORESCENTS FOR VIDEO AND FILM
Fluorescent lighting units are available that overcome the problems mentioned above. A wide range of fixtures are made by Kino Flo using high- frequency ballasts that are flicker-free and avoid the humming noise of standard ballasts. The KF55 tube is daylight balanced at 5500°K and the KF32 is tungsten balanced. Other manufacturers make fluorescent units as well. Banks of fluorescents can be used as key or fill lights. The light output is bright, soft, and very even. Individual tubes—sometimes very small ones—can be used for out-of-the- way spots or built into a set.
There are also fluorescent tubes available that can be used with conventional fixtures but produce a true color that reads correctly with either video or film. The Optima 32 bulb is tungsten balanced and the Vita-Lite and Chroma 50 tubes are daylight balanced. When shooting in an office or other institutional setting, a movie crew will often replace the existing tubes with these bulbs.
LEDs
A newer type of lighting unit uses LEDs (light-emitting diodes) and offers lots of advantages for shooting. These compact units produce heat-free, flickerless, silent light and some units can be dimmed from 100 percent to full off with no color shift (unlike many other types of light). Some LED instruments combine different-colored diodes, so they can be switched between 5600°K daylight and 3200°K tungsten balance (and some offer color balances in between). Other units are designed for daylight or tungsten color temperature and need a filter to convert to a different color. LEDs are highly energy efficient and have an extremely long life span. LEDs are available as flat panels, as focusable lensed lights, and as individual “bulbs” (such as those used in the home, which are bulb- shaped to emulate tungsten lights). As costs come down, LEDs are starting to replace other types of bulbs both in the home and on movie shoots because they are versatile and eco-friendly. See Figs. 12- 15 and 10-15.
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Fig. 12-15. Litepanels MiniPlus LED lights mounted on a car mirror and camera. LEDs are efficient lighting, available in daylight and/or tungsten balance, and fully dimmable with virtually no shift in color. LEDs are available in large and small panels. (Litepanels, Inc.)
CONVENTIONAL FLUORESCENTS
Standard fluorescent lighting fixtures have long, straight tubular bulbs and are usually undesirable for shooting—but they may be unavoidable. The spectrum of light from standard fluorescent tubes is discontinuous and matches neither tungsten nor daylight illumination. There are several types of fluorescent tubes available (daylight, cool white, warm white) that vary in color. Daylight and cool white tubes may produce an unpleasant blue-green color cast. Some warm white bulbs, however, are fairly close to tungsten.
As long as all fluorescent tubes in a scene are the same type, most video cameras can achieve an acceptable white balance (you may want to experiment with the “daylight” position on the white balance control). Film cameras can be used with filters on the lights or the camera to improve color rendition, such as using either an 85 or an FL-B filter for tungsten films or an FL-D filter for
daylight-balanced films. However, with many color film stocks, acceptable color balance can be achieved in the lab even if no filters were used. It’s better to get a good exposure with no filter than to be forced to underexpose with a filter.
Fluorescent lighting causes similar but less severe flicker problems than HMIs (see above). Standard frame rates of 24, 25, and 30 fps are fine. (In North America and other places where 60 Hz power is used, the rule of thumb is simply not to use shutter speeds faster than 1⁄60 second; in other
parts of the world where power is delivered at 50 Hz, 1⁄50 second should work.)
Mixing fluorescents with other sources of light can cause problems (see Mixed Lighting, p. 514). Fluorescent fixtures at workplaces often shine straight down, resulting in overexposed hair and deep eye and nose shadows. Many DPs choose, whenever possible, to replace standard fluorescents with color-balanced tubes (see below) or to turn off the fluorescents altogether and relight with some other source. When shooting in supermarkets and other settings in which it’s impractical to either turn off or replace existing tubes, a DP will sometimes use a professional fluorescent fill light fixture that uses the same tubes, to at least maintain consistency.
TYPES OF LIGHTING INSTRUMENTS
Lensed Spotlights
The most controllable kind of lighting unit is a focusing spotlight. Some spots have a Fresnel lens (silent s, pronounced “fray-NEL”) in front of the bulb (see Fig. 12-16). These lights emit focused, parallel rays of light that don’t spread out much or diffuse over distance. Most spotlights are focusable, which means the bulb can be moved back and forth relative to the reflector or lens to produce either a hard, narrowly directed beam of light (spot position) or a wider, more diffuse, less intense beam (flood position). These, like most other movie lights, have a set of adjustable baffles called barndoors, which are used to block the beam from going where you don’t want it (see Fig. 12- 18).
Mole-Richardson makes a widely used line of studio equipment and you should learn Mole’s names: a 5K lensed spotlight is a senior, while the 2K is a junior, and the 1K is a baby spot. A baby junior is a 2K in a small housing. A tweenie has a 650-watt bulb and a mini or tiny (also called an inkie) is 250 watts or less.
Focusing, lensed spotlights are versatile and very controllable and used extensively on typical movie sets. They may also be used on location shoots, particularly when the production is supported by a truck and a larger crew. However, lensed units are sometimes too heavy for a documentary being done with a small crew or involving a lot of travel. Some documentary DPs carry one or two lensed units and use mostly open-faced lights (see below).
Fig. 12-16. LTM Pepper Fresnel. Compact, focusing lensed spotlight. Note Fresnel lens. (Fletcher Chicago/LTM)
Open-Faced Spotlights
Open-faced spotlights have no lens in front of the bulb. These are lighter and cheaper than Fresnel units and are often used on location and in small-scale filming. While these nonlensed instruments can be focused by moving the bulb from spot to flood positions, they are less controllable or “cuttable” than lensed units (because the beam is not as sharp-edged), and the quality of light is not as har d.
Open-faced lights have various names. Mole’s 1K is a Mickey, Ianiro’s is a Redhead. A 2K may be a mighty or a blonde. Lowel’s open-faced spots include the Omni-light (maximum 650W) and the DP light (maximum 1K).
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Fig. 12-16. LTM Pepper Fresnel. Compact, focusing lensed spotlight. Note Fresnel lens. (Fletcher Chicago/LTM)
Fig. 12-16. LTM Pepper Fresnel. Compact, focusing lensed spotlight. Note Fresnel lens. (Fletcher Chicago/LTM)
Open-Faced Spotlights
Open-faced spotlights have no lens in front of the bulb. These are lighter and cheaper than Fresnel units and are often used on location and in small-scale filming. While these nonlensed instruments can be focused by moving the bulb from spot to flood positions, they are less controllable or “cuttable” than lensed units (because the beam is not as sharp-edged), and the quality of light is not as hard.
Open-faced lights have various names. Mole’s 1K is a Mickey, Ianiro’s is a Redhead. A 2K may be a mighty or a blonde. Lowel’s open-faced spots include the Omni-light (maximum 650W) and the DP light (maximum 1K).
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Fig. 12-17. Lowel DP open-faced spot. The quartz bulb is clearly visible. (Lowel Light Mfg., Inc.)
Nonfocusing Lights
Lights that are not focusable come in many configurations. Some have lenses, some don’t. PAR lamps (for parabolic aluminized reflector) are sealed beam lights that look like automobile headlights. PAR lights are available with different fixed lenses; some project a very narrow beam over great distances, while others have a wider pattern. PARs may be used singly or in groups— typically, a grid of 2 x 3 or 3 x 3 lights on a frame (called six lights and nine lights, respectively). PARs put out a lot of light, and they can be used to simulate or augment sunlight, but they can be hard to control. FAY bulbs are PARs that incorporate a dichroic filter to produce daylight-balanced illumination. You can also get HMIs in sealed-beam configuration.
There are several types of nonfocusing, open-faced floodlights. Scoops are dish-shaped floodlights. Broads are rectangular and have a long, tube-shaped bulb (see Fig. 12-18). Floodlights are sometimes used on the set as fill lights or to provide even illumination over a broad area. They can be hard to work with because the light tends to spill where you don’t want it.
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Fig. 12-18. Broad. Bardwell & McAlister 1,000-watt Mini-Mac with four-leaf barndoor. Note the tubular bulb. (Bardwell & McAlister, Inc.)
Soft Lights and Reflectors
The relatively hard light produced by a spot or a flood unit can be softened by placing some diffusion material in front of the unit. Diffusion spreads the light, disrupts the hard parallel rays, and cuts down the light’s intensity. One of the most common types of diffusion is light fiberglass matting called tough spun or spun (for spun glass), which will not burn under the high heat of movie lights. There are many other types of professional diffusion, including translucent plastic sheets such as Lee 216 White Diffusion and the slightly milder Opal Tough Frost made by Rosco (see Fig. 12-1). Rosco’s Soft Frost looks a bit like shower curtain material; because it’s flexible, it won’t rattle in the wind like some other diffusion material. Most types of diffusion are available in various grades, including full, 1⁄2 (medium), and 1⁄4 (light). If placed far enough from the heat of the fixture, any
number of materials can be used for diffusion, including thin cloth, silk, or rolls of tracing paper.
To obtain softer lighting, the light from the bulb can be bounced off a white or silvery surface; the
larger the surface and the farther it is from the bulb, the softer the light. A soft light is a large, scoop- shaped fixture that blocks all direct light from the bulb so that only bounced light escapes. Studio soft lights are bulky, but there are collapsible models available that pack easily for travel.
A soft box encloses the bulb in a collapsible reflector with a soft diffuser over the opening. These can provide very nice, soft light and are quick to set up and easy to use. Chimera makes popular soft boxes (called lightbanks) that can be mounted over a conventional spotlight with a speed ring adapter (see Figs. 12-20 and 12-26). Lowel’s Rifa light is a self-contained soft box (see Figs. 12-19 and 12-13) that sets up quickly. Compared to simply bouncing light against a card to produce soft light (see below), a soft box is more controllable—you can direct it at the subject without light spilling all over the room. Many soft boxes are available with an eggcrate (a fabric baffle that mounts on the front surface) that helps keep light from spreading (see Fig. 12-26).
Chimera also makes lanterns, which have rounded or pancake shapes that can be used to provide a gentle glow by a subject or for even illumination over a dinner table. You can make your own low- cost lantern using a household paper Japanese lantern.
Soft lighting can also be created with a spot- or floodlight by bouncing the light off walls, ceilings, or reflecting cards. Bounced light is good for lighting a large space. Foam-core sheets are lightweight and rigid and make a versatile bounce board that can be easily cut and taped to walls or mounted on stands. White cardboard show cards are cheaper but sometimes not rigid enough. Using foam core or cards for fill lighting can be a good way to fill shadows from lights without creating new ones (see Fig. 12-34).
An extremely lightweight space blanket or foil sheet can be taped shiny side out to make an excellent reflecting surface on a dark or colored wall, and it will protect the wall from burning. Another way to create soft light is to use a photographer’s umbrella, which is silver or white on the inside. The lighting unit is mounted on the stem and directed toward the inside of the umbrella. Umbrella reflectors fold to a compact size for traveling.
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Fig. 12-20. Chimera lightbanks being used for soft key lighting. A reflector provides fill. See the results in Fig. 12-29D. (Chimera)
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Fig. 12-19. Collapsible soft boxes produce very soft, very even illumination and fold up for travel. Shown here, Lowel Rifa lights of various sizes. See also Fig. 12-13. (Lowel Light Mfg., Inc.)
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Fig. 12-21. A light source can be softened by bouncing it and/or by projecting it through diffusion
material. The xenon light source here produces a very circular, focused, narrow beam of light. Shown with Xeno mirror reflector. (Matthews Studio Equipment, Inc.)
Generally the reflecting surface should not have a color cast. However, sometimes a colored surface is used deliberately to create an effect. A reflector with a gold surface may be used to provide a warm fill light. Space blankets usually have a blue side that can be used to approximate daylight when bouncing tungsten lighting units.
Reflectors of various kinds are also used outdoors to redirect sunlight. This is commonly done to fill shadows on a sunny day (see Figs. 12-22 and 12-40). Usually you can get much more punch from a reflector than you can from a powered lighting instrument and it requires no electricity. Smooth, silvered reflectors provide relatively hard light, while textured silver or white surfaces are softer. Collapsible, cloth reflectors such as the Flexfill are popular for location shoots. They fold into a small disc for travel, and open to a larger circle with one side white and the other silver or gold. On windy days, all reflectors must be carefully steadied or the intensity of light on the subject will fluctuate.
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Fig. 12-22. Flexfill reflectors. Useful for filling shadows and reducing lighting contrast. Available in different surfaces: white maintains the character of the light; silver for more punch over longer distances; gold for adding warmth (shadows lit by skylight can sometimes look blue); translucent softens the light (when placed between light source and subject). Flexfills collapse to roughly one- third size when not in use. (Allen Green)
Practicals
When a typical household table lamp is used on a movie set, it is called a practical. Practicals are often part of the set design (see Fig. 12-31). They may also be present in documentary shoots. Often a dimmer or diffusion material is used with a practical to cut down the intensity or at least minimize the light falling below or above a lampshade. You can get inexpensive dimmers at a hardware store that screw into the socket or plug between the power cable and the wall. If you’re looking for more intensity from a practical, and you use a photoflood or screw-in halogen light, be sure the fixture is rated for the wattage of the bulb and that there’s adequate upward ventilation to prevent burning or melting. For more on working with practicals, see Lighting Wide Shots, p. 506.
Camera Lights and Handheld Lights
Camera-mounted lights are commonly used for newsgathering or documentary (where they are
sometimes called sun guns) and feature films (where they may be called Obie lights, eye lights, or bash lights). A camera-mounted light is useful when the camera is moving because the unit moves with the camera and provides shadowless light on the subject. This shadowless light can be a blessing if it is filling the shadows cast by other, stronger lights. However, if it is the only light on the subject, it can be a curse, as full frontal lighting tends to be flat and harsh. On the other hand, ring lights, which circle the lens, provide totally flat, frontal light and that shadowless look is often seen as glamorous.
Sun guns (originally a trade name that gained wide use) are often handheld and powered by battery. Even a standard tungsten spotlight can sometimes be fitted with a 30-volt bulb and powered with a 30-volt battery pack or belt. Lights and power packs vary in capacity, and most require several hours to recharge (see Battery Power, p. 128). With tungsten bulbs, when the batteries run down, light intensity and color temperature drop. LEDs are more efficient, will run longer on a battery, and should maintain constant color temperature (see Figs. 12-15 and 10-15). Battery-powered lights are useful for scenes in cars; some can be run off the car battery by using an adapter.
When a scene is lit with only one small light, it’s not easy to make the lighting pleasant. With a handheld light, it’s probably best to position the light a few feet to the side of the camera. The harsh shadows can be softened with diffusion on the light, although this sacrifices brightness. Some DPs bounce handheld lights off the ceiling or a wall, producing a very diffuse light. To maintain constant illumination, hold the unit steady. It’s often best to have an assistant hold the light.
Lighting Accessories
The art of lighting begins with the lights themselves, but the tools for controlling light are just as important. The lighting package includes many accessory items for working with light.
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Fig. 12-24. Lighting accessories. (A) French flag. (B) Snoots. (C) Full scrim and half scrim. (D) Cookies. (E) Century stand with three gobo heads and flag. (F) Hanger for mounting on pipes or small beams. (G) Polecat mounted in window well. (H) Gator grip. (Representations are not drawn to same scale.) (Carol Keller)
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Fig. 12-25. Adjusting a double scrim on a grip stand. Useful for shading off the light on part of a scene.
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Fig. 12-25. Adjusting a double scrim on a grip stand. Useful for shading off the light on part of a scene.
- Spilled light, or just spill, is light (usually from the edge of the beam) that illuminates an area where you don’t want it. Spill is primarily controlled with barndoors, which are adjustable flaps that mount on the front of the lighting instrument (see Fig. 12-18). Barndoors come in two- and four-leaf versions, the latter providing more control. They can be opened wide or closed down to produce a relatively narrow beam of light. An even narrower beam can be made with a snoot, which is a cylindrical baffle that fits over a spotlight.
- Flags, which are also called cutters or gobos, are either rectangular metal cards, dark cloth on wire frames, or pieces of cardboard. They are usually mounted on stands to cut off unwanted spill. The farther the flag is from the light, the sharper its shadow will be.
- A French flag is a small card mounted on the camera as an effective lens shade to block light spilling into the front of the lens. These are sometimes attached to small flexible arms, and sometimes to the top of a matte box (see Fig. 8-10).
At times you need to flag off a light softly, creating a gradual transition from light to dark rather than having a hard shadow line. This may be done with a scrim or net—a piece of very thin, dark netting often mounted on a three-sided frame (see Fig. 12-25). Nets come in single and double thicknesses and can be used in multiple layers for increased shadowing.
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Fig. 12-26. (left) Cloth grid eggcrate being mounted on a large Chimera lightbank to reduce spill and direct light mostly toward the subject. (right) Using a scrim to reduce the output of a soft box. (Chimera)
Studio lighting is sometimes dimmed with shutters, which act like venetian blinds. Dimmers are used in theatrical lighting, as in the home, to regulate light intensity. Dimmers lower the voltage going to the light, which not only makes the light dimmer, but with tungsten lights results in the color temperature dropping as well (making tungsten lights more orange). There are some situations in which the lowered color temperature may seem natural (see Mixed Lighting, p. 514). LEDs and some fluorescents can be dimmed without changing the color.
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Fig. 12-27. A silk being used to cut the bottom half of the light beam; this evens out the illumination close to and far from the light. This light is attached to the telephone pole using a poultry bracket. (Matthews Studio Equipment, Inc.)
There are hundreds of devices for supporting lights and mounting them on various surfaces. Lights are usually supported by stands, which are collapsible for transport. Century stands (C-stands) have low-slung legs at different heights that allow several stands to be positioned close together. Gobo heads with multiple locking arms can be positioned in endless ways. Roller stands have wheels that make it easier to reposition heavy lights.
A gator grip is a spring-loaded clip for attaching lights to doors, pipes, and moldings. A C-clamp with a spud to mount a light is more stable. A polecat is like an expandable closet bar. A heavier-duty version is the wall spreader, which allows you to run a piece of lumber, such as a two-by-four, between two walls. A polecat or a wall spreader can be used to hang lights near the ceiling without stands that might show in the scene. When shooting in offices or other rooms that have hung ceilings,
a scissors clip allows you to mount lights right on the ceiling. A wall plate for mounting fixtures can be screwed or taped to vertical or horizontal surfaces.
Several feet of opaque black fabric such as duvetyn (“doova-teen”) can be extremely useful to have on hand for creating limbo backgrounds, darkening a window, or placing on a table for filming objects.
Other items for a lighting package include apple boxes (see p. 381), sandbags for stabilizing lights and stands, stingers (extension cords), gloves for handling hot lamps, and plenty of gaffer’s tape (a gray fabric tape sold in equipment houses—not duct tape). See p. 368 for a typical lighting and grip package.
Colored Filters and Gels
A common way to change the color of light is to use gels (gelatine), which are made of flexible, transparent plastic that comes in small sheets and large rolls. Gels can be mounted on lights in gel frames or just attached to barndoors with clothespins.
CTO (color temperature orange) gels are used to lower color temperature for converting daylight to tungsten-balanced light or otherwise warming a light source. Sun 85 or 3⁄4 CTO gels are roughly
equivalent to an 85 camera filter (see Chapter 8) and are used to convert standard 5500°K daylight and HMI sources to tungsten. These filters cut out about two-thirds of a stop of light. Lee 204 and Rosco 3407—full CTO gels that are slightly more orange—are used to convert skylight (6500°K) to tungsten.
CTB (color temperature blue) gels are used to raise color temperature and make any source bluer. Some blue gels are referred to as booster gels, since they boost the color temperature. Rosco 3202 and Lee 201 are full CTB gels, used to bring a 3200°K tungsten source up to 5700°K daylight. These cut out a little less than two stops of light (one and two-thirds).
Gels can be purchased in full, 3⁄4, 1⁄2, 1⁄4, and 1⁄8 intensity versions, from deep color to pale, to
make large or slight changes in color for precise matching of light sources. The deeper the color of the gel, the more it cuts down the light intensity. Often the full CTB cuts out too much light, and a 3⁄4
or 1⁄2 CTB is used instead, allowing a tungsten source to appear slightly yellow compared to daylight. Gels are available in many other colors besides orange and blue. Sometimes the light from an
HMI lamp seems slightly too blue; a 1⁄8 Straw gel or a pale yellow may be used to “take the curse off”
and warm the light a bit. There is a wide range of other colors for creating more theatrical effects. Gels are also available in combination with neutral density (ND; see p. 312) or diffusion material.
Blue Frost converts tungsten to daylight while adding diffusion—having both effects in one gel may prevent unneeded loss of light.
Gels should be replaced when heat from the lamp causes the center of the gel to become paler. Gels and the more rigid acrylic filters may be attached to windows to filter daylight (see Mixed Lighting, p. 514).
Another way to raise color temperature is to use a dichroic filter, sometimes called a dike, which is a special blue glass filter used to convert 3200°K tungsten sources to about 5500°K to match the color of daylight. These cut out about 50 percent of the light, reducing intensity by one stop. Dichroics are expensive and fragile and must be fitted to a particular light.
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Fig. 12-28. Lowel Super Ambi Kit. Location package includes two Omni-lights (650-watt-maximum open-faced spots); two Tota-lights (1,000-watt-maximum broads) with umbrellas; one Rifa eX 55 soft box; one Pro-light spot. Accessories include stands, flags with flexible stems, scrims, door/wall brackets, clamps, gel frames, etc. Everything fits into the carrying case. (Lowel Light Mfg., Inc.)
Mounting Lights Safely
In close quarters a hot, falling light can do serious damage. Spread legs of a light stand wide for maximum stability. Weigh down light stands with sand or water bags or tape them down with gaffer ’s tape. When raising a light, use the lower, thicker extensions of a light stand before the thin, upper ones.
Tape all power cables neatly to the floor or put mats over them in high-traffic areas so no one trips on them. Use plenty of good-quality gaffer’s tape when you attach lights to a wall, and if you can, place lights where they won’t strike anyone if they fall. Remember that tape loses its stickiness when hot. When possible, “safety” a hanging light by attaching a piece of sash cord or chain to a fixed point to catch the light if it drops off its mount. Gaffer’s tape will often remove paint and wallpaper, so peel the tape back slowly as soon as possible after shooting to minimize damage.
LIGHTING TECHNIQUE
LIGHTING STYLES
Before beginning any movie that involves controlled lighting, decide on the lighting style you hope to achieve. The DP and director can look at movies, photographs, and paintings for ideas.
Like everything else, lighting styles have evolved over the years. Black-and-white feature films of the 1930s and 1940s were usually lit in a highly stylized way. The goal was not “realistic” lighting but something that would heighten the drama and the glamour. These films were shot on studio sets that often had no ceiling and only two or three walls. Lights mounted outside the set on overhead grids
and elsewhere struck the actors from directions that would be impossible in a normal building interior. Strong edge lighting was needed with black-and-white to separate actors from the background.
In many feature films today, lighting is intended to be more “naturalistic”—that is, like the kind of light one would find in the real world. Many lights may be used, but the intent is to simulate the light that might normally occur in the filming space, whether it be from sunlight or man-made fixtures. One way to help give lighting a natural feel is to make sure that the chief light sources seem “motivated.” Motivated lights are ones that appear to come from a logical source. For example, actual window light may be used for illumination, or lighting instruments may be set up near the windows to give the illusion that the light comes from the windows. Even if the goal is naturalistic lighting, usually liberties can be taken to improve the lighting of faces or achieve particular effects.
Often a few household fixtures are placed in a scene as practicals. These may actually light the subject or merely act as motivation for light from professional lighting instruments.
Of course, many movies don’t seek realism at all, and instead use lighting to create a dramatic, expressive ambience. Horror films, action films, and many dramas use a more theatrical approach to lighting that creates a unique world that doesn’t particularly look like the one you live in.
The sensitivity of digital cameras and film stocks has improved, and it’s increasingly possible to shoot indoors entirely with available light without introducing any special lighting equipment. This can be a real boon for documentaries (see below). For fiction films, ironically, it sometimes takes a lot of light to make a scene look really unlit, the way it does to the naked eye. For example, you may be able to shoot an interior scene with just window light, but this may result in the windows being overexposed and the people appearing somewhat underexposed (see Fig. 7-17). To get a natural balance between the interior and exterior may require gels on the windows and/or a significant amount of light from inside (see Mixed Lighting, p. 514).
Documentary Lighting
Lighting a documentary can be tricky. You have to balance your desire for a certain style or look with the typical constraints of a small crew, small lighting package, and short shooting schedule. Interviews can be lit fairly fast, but providing good lighting for an uncontrolled scene in which people move around a large space, either at work or at home, often takes more time and equipment. Sometimes large spaces are lit with a few lights bounced off the ceiling. This may give you enough light for exposure and is fairly even. However, this kind of light is flat and tends to be “toppy”—that is, coming from above and causing dark shadows in the eye sockets.
When shooting unscripted scenes of people living their lives, consider the effect the lights have on your subjects. If you’re filming intimate scenes of family life and other potentially delicate moments, you want to do everything you can to minimize the disruption caused by the film crew. Bright lights can create an “on-the-set” feeling, and people under the lights may feel like they should “perform” when the lights go on. Also, because it’s hard to light an entire house or location, the use of lights transforms some areas into filming spaces while others remain living space. All of this may disrupt the natural flow of life that you hope to capture. Sometimes you can mount a few lights on the wall or ceiling and basically leave them in place for the duration of a shoot, turning them on when needed. The less light you use, the more mobile and unobtrusive you can be. But this may come at some sacrifice to the image quality. For every scene, you have to balance these concerns.
POSITIONING LIGHTS
A Basic Lighting Setup
A classic lighting technique is sometimes called three-point lighting because three basic lights are used to illuminate the subject: the key, fill, and backlight. Each light has a particular function. Even if many lights are used to cover a large set, each light plays one of these three roles.
KEY LIGHT. The key is the brightest light and casts the primary shadows, giving a sense of directionality to the lighting. The key may be hard or soft; the harder the light, the bolder or harsher its shadows will be. The key’s shadows must be watched carefully for the way they interact with the subject. The key light is usually placed somewhat off the camera-to-subject axis, high enough up so that the shadow of the subject’s nose does not fall across the cheek but downward instead. This height helps ensure that body shadows fall on the floor and not on nearby walls, where they may be distracting.
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Fig. 12-29. Three-point lighting. (A) Key light only. In this shot, the key is quite far to the side. (B) Key plus backlight. The backlight separates the man from the dark background and brings out texture in his coat and hair. (C) Adding fill light from near the camera on the opposite side from the key brings up the light level primarily on the dark side of his face, making the shadows less severe. See Fig. 12-30 for this lighting setup. (D) Another example of three-point lighting, with a softer, more frontal key coming from the other side of the camera, and a lower-contrast look. Additional lights highlight the background. See Fig. 12-20 for this lighting setup. (Stephen McCarthy; Chimera)
FILL LIGHT. The main function of the fill light is to fill in the shadows produced by the key without casting distinct shadows of its own. Fill lighting is almost always softer than the key; it’s usually created with a soft light fixture or a bounced spotlight. If the fill light emanates from a point close to the camera’s lens and at the same level, its shadows will not be visible to the camera. The fill is generally placed on the opposite side of the camera from the key. Sometimes light is bounced off the wall or ceiling to provide flat, even fill over a broad area.
BACKLIGHT. Backlights (variants are called hair, rim, or edge lights) are placed on the opposite side of the subject from the camera, high enough to be out of view. Backlight should generally be fairly hard, to produce highlights on the subject’s hair. If a backlight is at about the same level as the subject and somewhat off to the side, it is called a kicker. Kickers illuminate the shoulders and the side of the face more than hair lights do. All backlights are used to give a bright outline to the subject, helping to separate the subject from the background and define shape.
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SET LIGHTS AND SPECIALS
In some situations, the key and fill lights adequately light the background. In others, a fourth basic type of light, the set light, is used to illuminate the background and selected objects. Sometimes parts of the set need to be given their own key, fill, and/or backlights. A special is a light used to solve a particular problem, such as a light to bring out an especially dark object in the background.
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Fig. 12-30. A three-point lighting setup, similar to the one used for Fig. 12-29. (Robert Brun)

